ALGONE - The Aquarium Water Clarifier & Nitrate Remover

Clear cloudy aquarium water & remove nitrates and other harmful toxins and nutrients
  • Clear cloudy aquarium water
  • Remove harmful nitrates
  • Remove pollutants & toxins
  • Maintain a beautiful & healthy fish tank

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Aquarium maintenance tips and fish care guidelines

Trigger Fish in aquarium

Good aquarium maintenance practices will lead to a healthy aquatic environment and thriving fish, providing years of joy for the hobbyist.

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Expensive and time-consuming problems can be prevented by spending thirty minutes on maintenance every other week.

The biggest factor for maintenance is tank stability. As long as everything is running properly and your fish are healthy, there is no need for any major change, even if the pH or hardness seems to be slightly out of range; only increases or decreases of the major aquarium water parameters will need your careful but immediate attention.

Water Changes

A key part of aquarium maintenance is the water change, which should be performed about every two weeks. In most cases, 10-15% of the tank volume is sufficient. A good method is to replace the water extracted while vacuuming the gravel, which will eliminate uneaten foods and other residues that settle on the substrate.

It is highly recommended to check the water parameters of both the tank and replacement water. Most tap water (city water) contains either chlorine or chloramine. Chlorine will air out rather quickly (kept in an aerated bucked for twenty-four hours); chloramine (chloramine = chlorine + ammonia) will not. Using a water conditioner will neutralize the chlorine in both cases, but ammonia will still be present in the latter. It has to be broken down by the nitrifying bacteria present in the aquarium. This may take longer than your fish can tolerate.

Other elements of municipal water may be phosphates, iron, and other heavy metals. To find out about your tap water chemistry, call your local water company.

Well water is usually harder than tap water, but is chlorine/chloramine free.

Filtered water should also be checked on a regular basis and should be considered part of your aquarium maintenance routine. The filter membranes could be damaged or may require replacement prior to the expiration date.

Testing Aquarium Water

Water chemistry is not visible; therefore, it is vital to check it on a regular basis. The best way to make this a routine is to check on the tank chemistry while changing the water.

The vital parameters are pH, nitrates, nitrites, and carbonate hardness (salinity for marine tanks).

Stability is the main factor with pH. pH in the range of 6.5 – 7.5 is suitable for most species, but they can adjust if slightly out of range.

KH (carbonate hardness) is the indicator of pH stability. It should be kept under close observation if it comes close to 4.5 dH (degree hardness) or 80 ppm. You must take action if it decreases any further.

Half a teaspoon of baking soda per twenty-five gallons of water will raise the kH by about 1 dH (17.8 ppm).

Nitrites should be undetectable at all times (except during cycling). If you detect nitrites make sure you check on ammonia as well.

Nitrates should be kept below 10 ppm in freshwater and 5 ppm in marine and reef (preferably 0 ppm).

Aquarium Filtration

The proper function of the filter is essential. Filter inserts (floss, Algone, activated carbon) should be changed at least every four weeks. A high fish load may require shorter periods. Trapped particles will decompose in the filter as they would in the tank. The filter should also be cleaned once a month (do not touch the bio-wheels, if present) by using the water extracted from the tank during the water change.

Recommended Aquarium Maintenance Routine

Daily

  • Make sure the equipment is running properly.
  • Watch your fish during feeding. Behavioral changes are a good indicator of a potential problem.

Weekly

  • Count your fish. In case of fish death, smaller species can decompose quickly, resulting in ammonia and nitrite spikes, and eventually high nitrate levels.

Every Other Week

  • Test your water for the vital parameters: pH, carbonate hardness, nitrite and nitrate.
  • Change 10-15% of the water .
  • Vacuum the gravel .
  • Clean the aquarium walls. Filter floss is fairly cheap and very efficient. Start from the bottom upward and rinse out often.
  • Rinse filter inserts (cartridges) with the extracted water.

Monthly

  • Replace filter inserts, cartridges, floss, carbon, and Algone.
  • Inspect tubing, connections, airstones, skimmers and other parts for proper operation.
  • Clean aquarium top to assure your lighting is not affected.
  • Check the expiration dates printed on the boxes and bottles of the aquarium supplies you use. Do not use after the imprinted date. Expired test kits will give false readings and may prompt you to take unnecessary action.
Last updated: June 13th, 2014 by algone

6 thoughts on “Aquarium maintenance tips and fish care guidelines

  1. Agnes Buhalski says:

    My unused Aquarium needs cleaning brfore I can again put fish in it. How do I go about this? What products can I safetly use as not to harm the fish. Thanks Agnes

    • Scott says:

      Thoroughly rinse the tank with clean, warm, fresh water. If there is some grime buildup on the glass then you can use any mild detergent to clean the tank more thoroughly. A window cleaner will work as well. If you do use a detergent or window cleaner, make sure you rinse the tank assuring ALL of the soap is removed. Soap residues are harmful to fish and other livestock. It is also harmful to the natural nitrifying bacteria, which is needed to keep the aquarium healthy and balanced. Hope this helps.

  2. Habib. m.s says:

    Its also not advisable to always leave the lighting system on for 24Hrs. This is thought that light stimulates the growth of algae which may endanger the life of fish in my aquarium. Since this will make them active.

    • Scott says:

      You are absolutely correct in that excessive lighting can cause increased algae growth in the aquarium. We generally recommend not lighting for more then 6 hours a day. Less if an algae problem already exists. Of course this is just a general guide and special consideration needs to be given to aquariums that require additional and/or specific lighting such as reef tanks and planted aquariums.

      In addition to light algae also requires nutrients, especially nitrate, for growth. Therefore the lighting schedule as well as nitrate control are the best means for controlling aquarium algae growth.

  3. Michelle says:

    I am planning on having Blood parrot cichlids in my aquarium. I cleaned the tank and took some of the water for testing. They told me that nitrates were too high. I bought several products to combat this problem, but still it is unstable. I was then told by a fish expert that the regular tap water is safe. Before I get my fish, how can I get my aquarium environment safe for my cichlids?

  4. Thilo says:

    High nitrates is a relative term, and depends on the species and the overall environment. Tab water, treated with a water conditioner, is a safe source, but not directly linked to nitrates. With water changes, nitrates are temporarily diluted. Keeping in mind that nitrates are the end result of decaying organic matter. Algone for example removes more than just nitrates. Proteins, fats and other substances are removed, otherwise they would eventually turn into nitrates. I would say 20ppm would be safe to introduce new fish. The lower the better of course.

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