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Aquarium Maintenance

Water Changes | Testing | Filtration

Daily | Weekly | Every Other Week | MonthlyAquarium Maintenance

 

Good aquarium maintenance practices will lead to a healthy tank, providing years of joy for the hobby.

Spending 30 minutes every other week seems reasonable compared to the time and money spent trying to solve a problem, which might have been prevented in the first place.

The biggest factor for maintenance is tank stability.

As long as everything is running properly and your fish are healthy, there is no need for any major changes, even if the pH or hardness seems to be slightly out of range.

Only increases or decreases of the major water parameters will need your careful but immediate attention.

Water Changes

The most talked about part of aquarium maintenance is the water change.

A water change should be performed about every 2 weeks. In most cases 10-15% of the tank volume is sufficient. A good habit is to replace the water extracted while “vacuuming” the gravel. This will eliminate uneaten foods and other residues that settle in the substrate.

It is highly recommended to check on your water parameters, both, in the tank and the water you use to replace it with. Most tap-water (city water) contains either chlorine or chloramine. Chlorine will air out rather quickly (kept in an aerated bucked for 24 hours) Water changes and the aquariumchloramine will not (chloramine = chlorine + ammonia). Using a water conditioner will neutralize the chlorine in both cases, but ammonia will still be present in the latter. It has to be broken down by the bacteria present in the aquarium. This can take longer than your fish can tolerate.

Other elements of municipal water may be phosphates, iron and other heavy metals. To find out about your tap-water chemistry, call your local water company.

Well-water is usually harder than tap water, but chlorine/chloramine free.

Filtered water should also be checked on a regular basis and should be considered part of your aquarium maintenance routine. Check for silicate and silicid acid, which penetrate the filter membranes after a short period of time.

Testing Aquarium Water

Water chemistry is not visible; therefore it is vital to check it on a regular basis. The best way to make this a routine is to check on the tank chemistry while changing the water.

The vital parameters are pH, nitrates, nitrites, and carbonate hardness (salinity of course for marine tanks).

pH in the range of 6.5 – 7.5 is suitable for most species, as they can adjust if slightly out of range. Stability is the main factor with pH. Aquarium water testing

KH (carbonate hardness) is the indicator of pH stability. It should be kept under close observation if it comes close to 4.5 dH (degree hardness) or 80 ppm. You must take action if it decreases any further.

Half a teaspoon of baking soda per 25 Gallons will raise the kH by about 1 dH (17.8 ppm).

Nitrites should be undetectable at all times (except during cycling). If you detect nitrites make sure you check on ammonia as well.

Nitrates should be kept below 10 ppm in freshwater and 5 ppm in marine and reef (preferably 0 ppm).

Aquarium Filtration

The proper function of the filter is essential. Filter inserts (floss/ cartridges/ activated carbon) should be exchanged at least every 4 weeks. Trapped particles will decompose in the filter as they would in the tank. A high fish load may require shorter periods, to avoid problems. The filter should also be cleaned once a month (do not touch the bio-wheels if present) by using the water extracted from the tank during the water change.

Recommended Aquarium Maintenance Routine

Daily

  • Make sure the equipment is running properly.

  • Watch your fish during feeding. Behavioral changes are a good indicator of a potential problem.

Weekly

  • Count your fish. In case of fish death, smaller species can decompose quickly, resulting in ammonia and/or nitrite spikes and eventually high nitrate levels.

Every Other Week

Test your water for the vital parameters: pH, carbonate hardness, nitrite and nitrate.

  • Change 10-15% of the water .
  • Vacuum the gravel .
  • Clean the aquarium walls. Filter floss is fairly cheap and very efficient. Start from the bottom upward and rinse out often. (This technique will minimize the amount of algae spores remaining in the water).
  • Rinse filter inserts (cartridges) with the extracted water.

Monthly

  • Replace filter inserts, cartridges, floss, carbon, and Algone.
  • Inspect tubing, connections, airstones, skimmers and other parts for proper operation.
  • Clean aquarium top to assure your lighting is not affected.
  • Check the expiration dates printed on the boxes and bottles of the aquarium supplies you use. Do not use after the imprinted date (especially test kits). They will give false readings and may prompt you to take unnecessary action.

 

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